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Maybe it was the ‘Hurricane’ I had consumed earlier in the day at the kitschy and traditional Pat O’ Brian’s on Bourbon St. Perhaps it might have been that unusual and pleasant breeze in the warm summer air. One thing was for sure when I arrived at Donald Link’s new restaurant Cochon, New Orleans had placed some sort of spell on me, I was feeling quite good. Moaning good infact.
Located in the CBD, also known as the Warehouse district, Cochon sits at a fork in the road on Tchoupitoulas, diagonal from a non descript gas station, walking distance from Harrah’s and a mere bus ride from busy Canal St.
Cute wooden tables with umbrellas adorn the sidewalk out front. Inside, the furniture is mirrored by the street setting, only in blonde, and with a more ‘country’ sleek vibe. Wooden tables and booths are set up in front of the open kitchen, exposed brick walls, and large pane windows lend feel to whole Warehouse location. Upon arrival around or after 5:30 ish, from what I remember, a few people were sitting at the dark bar, and there was one other table in the restaurant. We were sat in what I consider a prime location, if only we had been placed one table over to the right, we would have had the ‘center stage’ table,with a view of everything most importantly the Kitchen. But we were placed a close distance to the bathrooms, but still closer to that Open kitchen, which was like one bright gleaming window box, complete with tall potted herbs and mason jars of house made pickles. Stools also set up for diners who wanted the real up and close view.
Our waiter arrived for drink orders, and in short he was completely average, unexcited, borderline pretentious at times, and throughout the meal proved nothing more. Was I expecting a song and dance? Well sure, it was my first time in the Crescent City, and Cochon was at the top of a long list of places to try. I associate a great restaurant experience with superior service, and sensational food. Lucky for us the food runner proved to be everything I’d hoped the waiter to be and more. He was originally from the Midwest, and had moved 4 years ago he too loves the city. He was happy to chat with us in length about the restaurant, the food it produces, and safe areas to live in New Orleans.
For drinks I ordered a charming Malbec, and I mean that sincerely, it was. My mom was just smitten over her Syrah, she even took down the name. My aunt had a glass of ice tea, but I can’t recall if she was asked it to be Sweet or Unsweet a common occurrence that had been happening in Cajun country. Lately I have become quite the wino buying and trying different wines each week, but the few day trip to New Orleans made me cast aside the vino in exchange for the cities famous libations. I should have flipped the menu, and ordered one of Cochon’s specialty cocktails which sound so good even now. If only. And why had our waiter not suggested one? I would have loved to try the ‘Pittspitter’; Creole Clement VSOP Rum, with Watermelon rind syrup and soda. That probably would have been great with their Smoked Beef Brisket. Other Cocktails include to be what sounds like a riff on the Pimm’s Cup (which on the trip I consumed about 5 or 6 at the Napoleon House, but not all at once of course!) which Cochon calls ‘Porch Swing’, they also do a Mint Julep, Bloody Mary, and the intriguing ‘ Bayou Beer’; Abita Rootbeer and Catdaddy Moonshine. How fun!
On to the appetizers, which along with the extras on the menu, could be a complete meal in my book. I had to try the Fried Chicken Livers with Pepper Jelly toast, which I keep reading about. Both my mom and aunt ordered the Grilled Shrimp with Chow-Chow. Chow- Chow our waiter happily explained upon asking is a pickled relish. I’m pretty sure we all moaned and slightly whimpered upon eating our respective appetizers, my aunt serious face and silently nodding, she speculated what the shrimp was rubbed with and plotted as to how she could recreate it . I was the loud one exclaiming that they “had to try!” these chicken livers, thankfully they declined so I had those 3 perfect morsels all to myself. It reminded me of Chicken and Waffles which I love because it blends salty and sweet. The Chicken liver itself fried perfectly and not overly livery, it sat upon a slice of toast, and was gently covered in some sweet pepper jelly. Along with the wine, it was heaven, and that’s only the beginning.
It’s important to note that Chef Donald Link is Cajun, so this restaurant is a homage to his Country Cajun upbringing. Like the French, the Mexican, and even Vietnamese, the Cajun’s utilize the whole animal from ‘nose to tail’, and at Cochon they make their own pickles, mustard and Boucherie; which is Charcuterie, (and can include but not limited to variations of sausages, terrines and pates.)
I ordered the Andouille sausage with grilled peach and onion salad. The sausage was warm, comforting and peppery, and as far as I am concerned it was just begging to be rolled up in a soft flour tortilla and smeared with some of their house made mustard. The peaches were al dente and smokey from the grill warmed gently. The tiny salad was a medley of grilled onions, fresh herbs torn from the pots with a touch of what may have been balsamic vinegar.
We skipped the entrees and opted for the smaller plates, I completed my meal with sides of mac and cheese and a simple salad of shaved zucchini and squash, with herbs, pecans and goat cheese. This is the example of how 5 simple ingredients can taste like a million bucks, perfection. My mom ordered the eggplant & shrimp dressing, which I thought also was incredible and one of the best things we had, it was layered with flavor upon flavor. It tasted balanced, organic, earthy, fresh, a slight hint of mushroom, and seafood but not overly shrimp infested. Sounds like a wine description but it was just a simple seafood and vegetable dressing. I hope that was the point.
Most disappointing was the mac and cheese, which was way too crispy on top and dry throughout. The pasta also seemed a little undercooked. It was cheese flavored just not a creamier version I was hoping to eat. I love creamy cheesy homemade mac and cheese, when done right I feel happier than the kid in the Kraft commercial.
Our helpful food runner described some delicious and homey sounding house made desserts, like an Albita root beer float, and some sort of ice box pie, but we opted to pass so we could head over to Harrah’s and walk off our meal in the process. Exhale! We did tumble into the evening street laughing with ecstasy and satisfaction the whole way, from what I recall.
Forget what you heard, New Orleans is not dead, she’s very much alive and well, and coming back in a big way! The people are some of the nicest you will meet, granted they can’t drive( crazy), but their friendliness and hospitality are what’s king. There is still so much to do, but things are happening, and a rebirth is underway. I recommend everyone get to New Orleans again, see what’s really going on, and fall in love with the Crescent City all over again.
excellent images from ~cochonrestaurant.com
Cochon Restaurant
930 Tchoupitoulas St.
504-588-2123